Story and photos by Anna Isabel C. Sobrepeña
THERE are hours between midday and evening when the rhythm of the day seems to move at a slower cadence. Either by design of human constitution to recharge or to indulge the palate with preferred company, afternoon rituals have evolved through time. High tea in 19th century England began when workers on long shifts took breaks to maintain productivity. It was a necessity for laborers during the Industrial Revolution to replenish their energy, typically with meat pies, bread, and, naturally, the English staple of tea.
Sometime in the 1840s, the 7th Duchess of Bedford Anna Maria Russell elevated the sine qua non into a refined social tradition. Addressing her hunger pangs which occurred after the noonday meal and before the late evening dinners, she would request for a tray of light foods. Friends were invited to share her tea, bread, and cakes, and unknowingly started a trend that quickly became popular among the highborn. Such agreeable gatherings were held with the refinements of aristocracy, served on a high table, hence, the term high tea.
Centuries earlier, the Spanish tradition of merienda was becoming part of the Filipino lifestyle. The Iberian practice from the colonial period of taking a light snack before a late dinner was translated into a break featuring sweet and savory servings of rice cakes, empanadas, turon, pancit, and halo-halo, among many others. It was a distinctly Filipino menu as varied as the flavors in the archipelago.
These two traditions from countries separated by an ocean and centuries have found a home in the Lounge on the mezzanine of the Grand Hyatt Manila.
GENUINE CLOTTED CREAM AND BINGSU
One level above the massive lobby is an open space with plushy couches and chairs. It provides a panoramic view of the interiors while affording a discreet presence. Every day from 2 p.m. till late afternoon, this spacious stretch is a watering hole for easy listening music and light finger food. A pianist plays popular melodies that set the mood at the Grand Merienda Cena. It spreads a selection of curated cakes, savory sandwiches, and tarts. Included are the signature cheesecake, almond Florentine cake, pistachio kataifi cake, Earl Grey mousse, mocha hazelnut and ice cream sundaes. Some of the open-face sandwiches available are crispy sisig cigar prepared with pork, chicken liver and calamansi aioli, home cured Norwegian salmon with citrus, dill cream cheese and capers, beef salpicao with striploin steak and shrimp toast enlivened with tobiko spicy aioli.
A live station prepares waffles alongside a choice of sauces and compote to top or slather on the freshly made honeycomb, batter-cooked cake. A favorite of habitués are the scones with authentic clotted cream, a winner on all counts, which Chef de Cuisine Alexandre Esnaud prepares in a 24-hour process.
Weekends indulge the Filipino palate with the addition of kinilaw na tuna, bao bun sandwiches with pork asado and chicken adobo, lumpiang sariwa, and calamansi tarts. Recently, pancit palabok has returned to the menu, much to the delight of many.
Executive Pastry Chef Won Young takes advantage of season availabilities like Japanese peaches to whip up a sorbet with the generous slices of the delicate pinkish fruit. A stellar mainstay is the bingsu, an elevated version of the Korean dessert made with milk-based, shaved ice topped with strawberries and blueberries. Every teaspoonful of this visually striking treat brings pleasure and a surprise within.
ART OF TEAThe choice to serve loose tea leaves over tea bags enhances the tea drinking experience with the more nuanced flavors of whole tea leaves. Besides the English breakfast, summer gold Darjeeling, Earl Grey, Ceylon decaffeinated, jasmine gold, fancy sench, and milky oolong, there are herbal infusions of peppermint, pure chamomile, rooibos balance, red fruit, and lemon grass. Coffee drinkers are not neglected and can choose brewed, americano, flat white, cappuccino, or cafè latte. The choice of beverage expands with a light rosé. Fruity and refreshing, the chilled wine enhances sweet and savory bites.
Weekend teatime extends beyond the afternoon to the early evening at 6 p.m. The all-day menu remains available till 11 p.m. for those who wish to linger for the music, preferred company and conversation.
